Mornings at Yosemite

There are two distinct shifts at Yosemite. Early-morning Yosemite is populated by Patagonia-clad hikers, who might enjoy a reflective sunrise at Glacier Point, and fan out across the park’s more- and less-traveled trails. You might sail through the park entrance an hour before dawn, drive to a trailhead and strike out at first light. You might cross paths with only a handful of people if you start early enough. You might have a breathtaking view or alpine lake to yourself.

On the return, you’ll encounter the second shift starting up the trail at around 11 a.m. These are the tourists who have possibly never hiked before and have miscalculated the endurance and clothing required. Women in luxury-brand athleisure with hair and makeup ready for the club. People who truly, honestly look like they might need emergency medical care if they keep going. Kids who will not make the distance. I saw someone carrying a cat once. I saw nylons (as in, pantyhose) once. It’s OK for people to live different lifestyles, and nature’s majesty is for everyone – but the footwear I’ve seen on the 600 steps to Vernal Fall is truly astounding.

As you leave the park to lay low until the next morning’s adventures, you might drive past a mile-long queue of cars waiting at the entrance you cruised through hours before. You’ll feel smug, and a little judgy. That’s OK too.

(More tips on how to enjoy Yosemite if you’re a solitude-loving misanthrope like me.)

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